Butterick 5891 KAtheRine Tilton

Butterick 5891 has been calling to me from my pattern box. My friend and I bought a few patterns by KAtheRine Tilton, as we find they are often asymmetrical, with a touch of whimsy-- and they allow for a variety of fabric combinations. I used a linen/poly for the mauve, and a creamy charmeuse with turquoise/mauve/olive flowers. I am making up View D of the same pattern in the turquoise color. I am going to make the Size 16, just to see if I can avoid doing an FBA (full bust adjustment). All fabrics were bought at Fabricville in Fredericton.

The back seam is offset, which allowed me to try a new technique. I used the pretty selvedge on that seam, which worked out quite well. What I learned by doing this is that I should have marked the 5/8th seam allowance all the way to the end and baste it. Then I SHOULD have basted the whole top together and checked for drag lines. Of course, I was too impatient to see what the selvedge would look like. When I noticed drag lines pointing to the right hip, it meant that the center back seam was off kilter. I had to unpick the selvedge, and the seam before straightening it out. Patience is coming slowly and at a price.

I made a size 14, but after tissue fitting, then making one muslin,  I decided that a full bust adjustment was in order. This pattern is asymmetrical. That meant fiddling around until the darts had the same angle. Two muslin changes for that issue! I must admit: I used the retouch button to erase a dart point on the left side that I did not see until these photos were taken and loaded onto the computer. So, I have gone back to fix the apex of the dart so it is not noticeable. It was easier editing it on the photo! Don't you hate going back and fixing something once you think it is done?

A few who had made the pattern commented on the pleats in the peplums. You can see that I have pinned the pleat in on the photo on the right. My husband kept frowning at that, telling me that my 'hem' was tucked up, so I took it out. I'm undecided as to whether to sew both of them in. If the pleat is in, the front peplums seem to have similar hem lines. I do like the funnel neck, but I did a fully seamed collar so that there are no raw edges showing.

I also decided to make the sleeve facings into a design feature. Now that I have a brand new Husqvarna Opal 650 sewing machine, I am able to adjust the needle position easily to sew right where I want! When the cooler weather comes, I will wear this with a long sleeved T.

The pants were drafted from a yoga block that my sewing friend and mentor drew up for me. I wish I had taken time to put pockets in them, but now that I have more experience, I will do that on the next pair. These fit very nicely. Ignore the drag lines in the photo from the back. I was trying to pose and shouldn't have!

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