Katherine Tilton Raglan sleeve coat dress Butterick B6254

I loved the look of this pattern. Perhaps the turtleneck it is styled with drew me in--I'm all about keeping my neck warm and hiding what looks like my grandmother's neck. Ignore that my rabbit angora scarf untucked itself here, please

But, isn't the line of the jacket flattering? And, who knew how easy the pattern goes together. Usually a Tilton pattern has some origami type of fold and asymmetrical hem,
sleeve, or side seam going on. Nope, this was an easy, well drafted and flattering coat/dress/tunic.

But, you can't fool me!  I knew enough to make a muslin out of some remnant grey pointe lurking on the back table of Fabricville. I sewed it up, forgoing the usual FBA because I didn't want to research how to do this on a raglan style pattern, and because I live in hopes that all patterns will suddenly make me the Average sized woman of a certain age. Lady Luck smiled on me because the proportions of this pattern were just fine. But, after putting this grey coat on, I immediately thought I could hear Stalin calling me comrade. It looked a bit bleak and slightly shapeless. I felt as though the armscyes were hanging a little low, and perhaps it was a touch too wide in the back. I'll see if I can get a photo of it, just for laughs.
I promised a closer look at the armscyes.
 I am used to them being lower, now.



My sewing mentor has suggested that I needed to start choosing a smaller pattern size, based on the width of my back rather than the bust measurement. I've learned to do a variety of full bust adjustments from Diana and from Craftsy's Kathleen Cheetam. But after looking carefully at my muslin (The Stalin Coat), and the pattern, Diana thought the sleeves needed to stay where they were.

I decided to try the pattern again in a textured knit, adding some buttery imitation leather along the raglan seam lines to draw the eye away from the low hanging armpit area. That worked so well, I added welt pockets with that soft pleather, except for them dragging a bit and showing the silk charmeuse pocket linings, which I had to hide with fake facings. I did it perfectly matching the pattern. I dare you to find them!



Things I learned:

1.  You can get used to bat wings. They are very comfortable.
2.  Textured knits are fun and hide a lot of sewing sins.
3.  I used snaps under the buttons as I was afraid the knit buttonholes would eventually bag out,  even with stabilizer and interfacing. I must have made every mistake sewing on the snaps backward, in the wrong place, wrong side up.  Many curse words were uttered in the 4 hours it took me to sew them and the buttons.
4.  Somehow the right front stretched out one inch longer than the left front. I blame the snaps and buttons, because they ganged up on me. So I had to open up the front facing and lengthen the left side to match. I'm watching you!!!
5. I shouldn't ask my husband to be a photographer in the setting sun while he is on the way out the door to do something I should have done.



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