Pin Up Girls Shelly Design Challenge

I have a friend who would like a bra that attaches in the front, has a Y back, and fits well. She also is not afraid of underwires. It seems like so many people have ill fitting bras where the underwire pokes into them, that they shudder upon hearing the word, UNDERWIRE.

But, I can assure you, that if the wires fit you, you will have support and not even notice them. It is true. If the wire sits around the base of the breast tissue, you will only feel support, not discomfort. Also, the right length will assure that the wire does not poke you under the arm. If a bra is doing hurting you, you need to get a better fitting bra.

Here is the creation I made for myself. I promise; I did sew down the strap attachment in the back. (It is pinned in the photo.

New Challenges:
1.  the sewing techniques of fold over elastic
2.  draft the bra back band and partial band with the Shelly pattern
3.  learn to insert a front magnetic closure. I promise--this magnetic closure is secure! I bought one from BraMakers in Hamilton, Ontario and it is a beautiful piece of engineering.
4.  double the power bar fabric, and the upper cup fabric in duoplex to give support and lift for golfing.

Fitting Issues to Deal with:
1. Assymetrical Cups meant putting in the front closure using a butterfly attachment meant I had to line up the seam lines, or the upper cup edges. I had to trip the left cup which had previously been seamed in order to make it line up--too obviously out of line, if I didn't, so I continued the Fold over Elastic to the front closure.
2. Making sure the back band had enough tension when sewn to the cups to stay in place, and support the cups and front closure.
3. Getting the magnetic closure to fit inside the narrow bridge. Some women have more 'real estate' between the breast tissue.
4. I doubled the power net on the back band, because I wanted to use black and only had a lighter version of power net from Fabricville, rather than other colours I had on hand from Bra Maker's Supply.
5. I think I need to add a wedge to the upper left cup, as it looks a little snug--could be that the fabric is doubled, but perhaps too many storm chips and Netflix?!?

This bra is well fitting, feels comfortable, and I wear it a lot. Next time I will cut off the seam allowances under the arms, especially on the right when using fold over elastic, as it is a bit high under that arm. I will add 1/4 inch wedge to the left cup to bring the wire closer to the center. I think that was because I doubled the fabric and the Direction of Greatest Stretch is less stretchy than if I had used a single layer. The Shelly gives me a nice profile.

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