Bra Drafting and Fitting

After spending a week at Beverly Johnson's Bra Maker's Supply in Hamilton, Ontario, I am more determined than ever to make custom made bras. There are two tried and true choices. I can use a pattern and I am partial to Pin Up Girl's Classic pattern by Beverly Johnson. There are over a hundred size variations to make out of the 4 pattern sizes that are offered, but then, the bra still has to be mocked up first and then make the specific fitting adjustments. This will work for most women.

However, sometimes drafting from 10 measurements will help fit a person even more closely than a pattern might do. So, I took the Drafting and Fitting Class, which is a 5 day course of fast paced instruction. Taking the 10 measurements, finding the right wire size and drafting the band, allowing for negative ease, the bra frame, lower and upper cup, strap placement, and deciding to split the lower cup are all taught in the class within 2 days. Sewing a partner's bra is next, and fitting adjustments come on the 3d and 4th day. The adjustments are transferred to the pattern. This is an area which will require more practice for me. In fact, I might just save up for another class just on fitting, called 'Fit for All'.  But, in the meantime, I will diligently take notes, and practice on anyone who volunteers!

On the last day, we learned how to take the pattern and change the seam lines for more variations. Can't wait to get to that part. But first, get the draft done!

Checking for accuracy along the wire line. You can see the frame, wires, and lower cup. This bra is asymmetrical for a woman with two different sized cups, using a 42 WL, and 44 WL long underwires. (From BraMaker's Supply)
I'll post more photos of the different pattern pieces that I draft. Have you tried drafting a bra? How did it go?

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